Travel for the Mind - Jordan, Israel and the Occupied Territories with George Negus

Welcome to Amman, the bustling capital of Jordan and the beginning of our exciting, eye and mind-opening three-country excursion in the Middle East! One group transfer is provided on World Expeditions recommended flight, EK901, departing Dubai at 0730 and arriving into Amman at 0930. If you are arriving (and departing) on alternate flights, separate transfers can be arranged at an additional cost. On arrival at your hotel after a long flight, take your time to settle in. In the late afternoon, we visit the Citadel with its 360 degree views of “the white city.” Our local guide will introduce Jordan, its history and capital city to you from this spectacular archaeological site. As the sun sets, we travel to our welcome dinner with George and Kirsty at a local Amman restaurant. Overnight at House Boutique Suites, Amman GEORGE'S PERSPECTIVE: Many thoughts are prompted by his best-selling book, “The World from Islam”: “If you’ve been to more than one of them you’ll know what I mean when I say that there are Arab countries and there are Arab countries. Even Arabs themselves will agree that some of the places they call home are nothing to write home about. It you’re looking for a pleasurable place to begin a discovery tour of Islam and its inhabitants, you probably can’t go past the regally-named Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan, the land of the friendly Arabs!” GN We arrive into Amman towards the end of the month long fast of Ramadan “How’s this for a part-fun, part-serious thought for our travel in the Muslim Middle East, to remind ourselves of the culturally, politically and religious part of the world we are about to discover over the next 2 weeks? No individual obligation whatsoever, of course but you could see how we can personally go for a day in the remaining days of the month-long Ramadan fast for not just Jordanians, but the world’s 1.5-billion Muslims who’ll be doing the same? How would we handle fasting from Dawn until Sunset? Seeing that we bill our WE excursions as “Travel for the Mind,” is fasting ultimately mind over matter, mind over religion or what? No individual obligation whatsoever, of course!” GN

Meals:  D

Amman is situated on a series of Jebels, hills and is divided by wadis, dry river beds, into ancient and modern quarters. Today we’ll get an orientation of the city and discuss ISLAM in a nation famous for its religious tolerance where two Christian churches are located opposite its King Abdallah Mosque. We will take an early “Travel for the Mind” opportunity to meet some locals and show you Embassy suburbs like Abdoun contrasting with Amman’s souk with its authentic ambiance of shops selling perfumes, aromatic spices and Arabic delicacies followed by a light lunch and some free time to wander the shops, before returning to our hotel. Overnight at House Boutque Suites,Amman GEORGE'S PERSPECTIVE: “Jordan wedged gingerly between Israel, the Palestinian Occupied Territories, Egypt, Saudi Arabia, Iraq and Syria. In the main, they are an identifiably amiable people and have remained so over decades of conflict and tension that have characterized the dangerously brittle relationship between the Arab-Muslim nations, Israel and the West. Over the years, the Jordanians have played a clever balancing game in the tricky geopolitical situations in the world. The late King Hussein even signed a peace treaty of sorts with Israel, the Arab-Muslims’ sworn enemy across the these days not-so-mighty River Jordan!?”GN

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This morning we focus on Jordan’s huge acceptance of refugees over many decades with the latest influx from Syria during the six year war there. Az Zaatari Refugee Camp has been created for refugees flooding across their borders and now is one of Jordan’s most populous refugee camps with an estimated 80,000 people living in tents or shipping containers. In the northern desert of Jordan, Az Zaatari has been gradually developing into the world’s fourth largest refugee camp. On the ground, the plan is to meet local experts such as UNICEF plus other NGOs and insiders who will provide us with an overview. We shall then have a chance to relax, eat, debrief and take in the stunning views of the surrounding countryside from the terraces Overnight Mountain Breeze Resort (twin or triple share available only) or return to Amman for overnight. GEORGE'S PERSPECTIVE: “If you are a first-timer to a refugee camp, prepare yourself! Az Zaatari in the dry, dusty north of Amman will be a jolting eye-opener. As one observer succinctly put it: ‘Two years ago, Syrian families began arriving here, fleeing war and persecution in their homeland.’ It has grown into the world’s most populous refugee camp and Jordan’s fourth biggest city. Paradoxically, what appears to be normal life – babies are born, kids go to school, tent and container businesses spring up, don’t be fooled by human resilience! Understandably, if you were wondering, according to UNHCR figures for the world’s almost unbelievable 65-million “forcibly displaced” people, camps like Az Zaatari are the home you have when you don’t have a home! BTW, refugee camps are NOT tourist attractions. Although we will likely have experts on the issue with us, out of politeness and respect for what are reluctant camp-dwellers, we will be observing their situation from a distance as we did in 2018, meeting children at a UNICEF centre.” .” GN

Meals:  B,L,D

This morning – on the way to our second country, the very different Israel – we drive to Jerash, an incredibly well-preserved ancient Roman City. Jerash’s golden age began with Roman rule. We’ll have some time to explore the city, including the impressive 800-metres “Street of Columns.” After Jerash, we commence a quite different journey into contentious, it seems constantly-at-odds Palestine and Israel via the King Hussein/Allenby Bridge. After being document-checked by Jordanian officials, passing through the official “no-man’s land” of about one kilometre and then being checked by Israeli officials, we will make it into Israel. To be honest, there is no way of being certain how long this process could take! Call it “a necessary but unavoidable international travel experience?” But, we will make it ….! Meet our Israeli guide and then continue through the Palestinian West Bank to our accommodation in Jerusalem, something seriously special. Overnight Jerusalem Hotel, Jerusalem GEORGE'S PERSPECTIVE: “Try this for a mind-bending conundrum! If you like, see it as a case of “Middle East politics” involved in crossing the Jordanian/Israel border? Stay with me, ok!? There are clearly two physical border crossing procedures to go through, one from Jordan, the other into Israel and, of course, the crossing back into Jordan from Israel-- which we will do on our return to Jordan in about a week’s time! So, are there two borders? In fact, are there any recognized frontiers at all? Because the so-called border crosses into the occupied Palestinian Territories, it cannot be an official border! Why? Because the Palestinian Territories are not an independent state or country. The Allenby Bridge therefore regarded as an “unofficial” border. The Jordanians define it as a Crossing Point. Hence the reason for the two names – the Allenby Bridge by the Israelis and the King Hussein Bridge by the Jordanians. And who said politics doesn’t find its way into the strangest corners of global life – including the name of a bridge that changes from one end to the other ….?? GN

Meals:  B,L,D

George loves returning to this city. We’ll start the day visiting the Old City through the Damascus Gate and head to the Al Aqsa Mosque, the third holiest site in Islam where we will discuss the religious and the political importance of one of the world’s most contested sites. We’ll move onto the magnificent Dome of the Rock and walk the length of the Via Dolaroso, follow in the footsteps Jesus is said to have taken -- The Twelve Stations of the Cross -- and ending at Calvary and the Church of Holy Sepulcher. We visit the unmissable Wailing Wall, the holiest Jewish site in Jerusalem. George has a favourite high spot in the Old City from which he hopes we will enjoy a double treat of viewing the Al Aqsa Mosque and the Wailing (Western) Wall at the same time. “You feel like you could throw a rock from the Wall to the Dome. Not a very good idea in this part of the world,” he quips. Finally, our absorbing Old City trek will take us via the Armenian, Jewish, Christian quarters finishing, of course, through the narrow, bustling lanes of the Grand Souk, one George’s favorites among the many Souks and markets he has worked in, spent time and money in all over the Gulf and Middle East … Free evening to discover more! Overnight Jerusalem Hotel GEORGE'S PERSPECTIVE: “The area immediately inside the history-laden Jaffa Gate, one of seven so-called ‘open gates’ to the stone-walled Old City of Jerusalem, has to be one of the world’s most fascinating places. Don’t ask me why it’s great, it just is. You can’t be there without feeling that you are really somewhere that matters. It is that kind of city, no matter where your religion falls. It’s no accident that Jerusalem was always going to be the sticking point in any resolution – military, political, peaceful or not so peaceful – of the Middle East stalemate. Jerusalem is where the Christian, the Jewish and the Muslim worlds literally cross paths. But, the Jaffa Gate is a specific meeting point. During a couple of hours and two or three icy Macabee beers, you can see the whole world and most of its religions pass by." GN

Meals:  B

This morning, we drive to the religiously and politically “loaded” West Bank town of Bethlehem, glimpse the literally and figuratively divisive so-called Separation Wall and visit the curiously named “Walled Off Hotel.” Yes, it is a hotel and yes, it is a clever play on words eg the famous Waldorf Hotel in New York!? Here we’ll take a coffee break to discuss the impact of the 600+kms Israeli-built Separation Wall -- or Barrier. Optional visit to the refugee camp in Bethlehem exists. After a light lunch, we spend the afternoon at the Nativity Church commemorating the Birth of Christ and one of the oldest churches ever built, the Manger Square and the Shepherds Field where the shepherds were told about the birth of Jesus. And we’ll hear about the heart breaking efforts to refurbish and rehabilitate Bethlehem in a millennial global vision and reconciliation project. Overnight Jerusalem Hotel GEORGE'S PERSPECTIVE: “Paradox – religious, political, military or otherwise – is an apt word where the Arab-Israeli conflict is concerned. Bethelehem, of all places, is a perfect example of WE’s “Travel for the Mind” concept. Remember the Israeli attack on Bethlehem back whenever? At the height of the exchange, 200 or more Palestinian fighters took refuge in the historic church adjacent to Manger Square as that hallowed Christian place was being taken apart by the IDF, Israeli militia. The paradoxic fact is that something like 5000 of the Palestinians living in Bethlehem are Christian Arabs – not Muslim Arabs!

Meals:  B,D

We’ll begin the day especially early enjoying the breath-taking view from top of Mt of Olives towards the old city of Jerusalem. Before we walk down the slopes of Mount of Olives, we will visit a nearby hospital for one of our briefings before slowly descending via the same route Jesus is said to have walked on Palm Sunday. Continue towards the Garden of Gethsemane the place it is said he prayed before being betrayed and caught by the Romans the night before crucifixion. This afternoon we head to Tel Aviv, the Embassy epi-centre of Israel, and a modern, vibrant and hip city - a 'Mediterranean Manhattan'. Tel Aviv is home to UNESCO-listed Bauhaus buildings, the oasis of the Neve Tzedek quarter, trendy Florentin and historic Jaffa (Yafo) with its fascinating Arab heritage. Tel Aviv is quite different to the rest of Israel, with a much younger population, whom we will be aiming to connect with. Overnight Jerusalem Hotel GEORGE'S PERSPECTIVE: Having enjoyed all that the walled city had to offer yesterday, today more from fascinatingly contentious Jerusalem! “To stand on the Mount of Olives and look across the narrow valleys of Kidron and Jehosophat to the Old City, with the gleaming gold of the impossible-to-miss Dome of the Rock as its centerpiece, is an experience close to overpowering. The good, the bad and the ugly history of this city that is more than just a city, is obvious to us. Fixing your eyes on it from the Mount’s fabulous vantage point, even for a moment or two, opens your observer’s mind to more than your eyes are seeing. X-ray- like, your astonished gaze takes your mind into this unfathomable city’s savagely divided soul.” GN

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Today we make our way to Ramallah. During our days in Israel and the Occupied Territories, George plans to introduce us to some impressive locals including Rae Dolphin from the UN Office of Humanitarian Affairs, an expert on the notorious Separation Wall. We'll experience Israeli Check Points; sighting Palestinian villages and Israeli settlements cheek by jowl. This afternoon we plan to visit the Palestinian Authority Political and Economic HQ, the Muqataa (Presidential compound) and the newly established Museum of Yasser Arafat - next to his tomb. Overnight Royal Court Hotel (or similar), Ramallah GEORGE'S PERSPECTIVE: Today’s on-the road excursion amounts to a microcosm of the unresolved Israeli/Palestinian division unleashed in 1948 as the British colonialists withdrew from what was originally Palestine. We will witness the stark and massive scale of an impossible to ignore wall-cum-cage 8-metres high, currently 650 kilometers long. This literally divisive wall is planned to be four times as long and in places, twice as high as the Berlin Wall “….GN

Meals:  B

Morning in Ramallah before we make our way across to Jericho for the evening. Overnight at Jericho Resort Village. GEORGE'S PERSPECTIVE: “If you’re Jewish the blame for the violence in the Middle East, particularly in Israel, is ultimately attributable to the Arabs. If you’re an Arab, particularly a Palestinian Arab, the responsibility for decades of un-abating deadlocked bloodshed rests with the Jews and their Western supporters, the US in particular. In reality though, who could possibly sort out the evolution of such a protracted conflict with such impeccable accuracy that they can say with certainty which side fired the first shot? Little wonder that the bitter recriminations go painfully on between the two sides, despite the valiant peace efforts? GN

Meals:  B,D

An early start today takes us back into Jordan for the second time in our excursion. After checks at both frontiers – an experience in themselves – we travel to another “bucket list” destination, the Dead Sea! En-route we will visit the fascinationg UNESCO World Heritage baptismal site of Al-Maghtas. Set in natural surroundings, the site is believed to be the location where Jesus of Nazareth was baptized by John the Baptist. This afternoon? Leisure and learn time, folks! Enjoy a salt-floated dip in the famously buoyant and very salty waters of the Dead Sea, the lowest point on earth with a saline level of around 30 per cent. Overnight Holiday Inn, Dead Sea GEORGE'S PERSPECTIVE: “Been there with the family. Great Fun. See how you go!? If you’re not, have a go anyway. Make sure that someone with an Iphone camera (even a real one!) take a pick of you floating better than you can normally swim. Heard someone describe floating in the Dead Sea is a lazy man’s (or woman’s) “very salty, oversized, shallow, lowest, back-yard pool that can be good for you – so long as you don’t roll over from your back onto your tummy and take a mouthful of that gritty mud …. Dead Sea mud masks can, indeed, make you look and feel better – so long as you remember to scrape it off! “Travel for the Mud”….? GN

Meals:  B

Today, an early departure so we have good time for an easy 2-3 hour walk in Dana Nature Reserve, a location rich with archaeological sites, wildlife and culture. From here, off further south to Wadi Rum where we will enjoy a traditional desert dinner at our private and simple Bedouin camp with our focus on the nomad lifestyle within the Muslim culture! Worth the day’s travel getting out into Jordan’s southern desert!! Overnight Captain's (Private) Camp, Wadi Rum. GEORGE'S PERSPECTIVE: When I was there some journalistic years back now, about 30 Bedouin families – together with sundry camels and dogs -- resided in the dusty local village of Rum. Don’t imagine that means alcoholic drinks are available there. Throughout Jordan, like most Muslim-majority countries, alcoholic beverages are illegal! These days, many Bedouin families are increasingly involved in tourism and hospitality, particularly here in the southern desert area and reducing their nomadic lives. They number close to a million with a desert nomad heritage. By the way, there are also more than 200,000 Bedouins scattered through Israel. Ask Kirsty about “the Muslim curtain” she shared with Bedouin women at our camp back in 2000. GN

Meals:  B,L,D

Today, amazing desert landscapes await us – including scenery you’ll recognize from the Hollywood cult movie “Lawrence of Arabia.” We’ll actually get to see what remains of D.H. Lawrence’s house deep in the Wadi desert. Make your choice between rough riding in jeeps or on a growling camel, not the most friendly or polite among four-legged creatures – but fun if your feel safe up there on that bloody hump; or maybe some terrific exploring on foot through spectacular, characteristically Wadi Rum desert landscapes and dry river valleys and craggy jebel peaks, reddish sandstone, yellow sand and black rocks. Note that the vehicles used in Wadi Rum are basic, but they are purpose-built for handling sandy desert tracks. They are owned and maintained by Bedouins as part of local tourism initiatives. After a memorable Wadi Rum experience, we depart for one-off Petra and after a couple of hours drive, check in to our accommodation right at the entrance gates. Today marks the official start of Ramadan Overnight Petra Old Village Hotel or Petra Moon Hotel GEORGE'S PERSPECTIVE: “The locals don’t call Wadi Rum “The Valley of the Moon” for nothing! It’s more like the surface of some remote celestial body than part of our planet. Indeed, someone has suggested that the combination of its immensity, its colours and its awesome shapes create a setting that is almost supernatural. Wadi Rum thumps both the eye and the mind with its massive maze of cream, tan and rust-coloured granite and sandstone almost devoid of vegetation as it rises from the desert. At daybreak, it’s mind-blowing.” T E Lawrence – yes, that T E Lawrence of Arabia put it this way: ‘The jebels, built sectionally like gigantic buildings Landscapes in childhood’s dreams so vast and silent!’ When our son Serge, then 10, first set eyes on these ‘stupendous hills,’ the jebels, he immediately wanted to be up close and personal with their precipices, their domes, their high caverns, their almost overwhelming immensity. Now 27, Serge never has and never will the magnificent natural wonder that is Wadi Rum -- “The Valley of the Moon ….! GN

Meals:  B,L,D

Petra is the soul-stirring “Rose-red City – half as old as time,” chief among Jordan’s archaeological riches, now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is the legacy of the Nabataeans, an industrious Arab people who settled in south Jordan more than 2,000 years ago. We rise early (Petra gates open at 6am) and approach the so-called “lost city” on foot through a kilometre long narrow gorge (or siq) flanked by towering cliffs. The sudden view we get of Petra’s most famous monument, the Treasury (or Khaznah) is dramatic. You will probably recognize it from its use in the cult Hollywood film “Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade.” But, this towering facade is only the first of Petra’s many unique structures. Various walks and climbs reveal literally hundreds of buildings, tombs, baths, funeral halls, temples, rock drawing and reliefs. Your entry ticket includes a horse ride into the site, with the option to ride a donkey, a relief on a hot day. However, in line with WE’s commitment to animal welfare in tourism, we actually encourage you to walk, rather than ride a horse or donkey through the siq. (Travellers have been upset by the treatment of horses and donkeys by their handlers). Overnight Petra Old Village Hotel or Petra Moon Hotel GEORGE'S PERSPECTIVE: Petra, must be one of few “touristy” places that can gets close to Wadi Rum as a destination. My gratuitous advice is not to compare, but contrast these two special but different experiences – one, Wadi Rum for its natural wonder, the other Petra for its man-made wonder! GN

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Today we travel by bus to Amman for our flight out of Jordan. On our bus journey, a stop at Madaba, known for its Byzantine mosaics and at nearby Mt Nebo, high on a hill overlooking the Dead Sea. Arriving in Amman, we will enjoy the celebration of our final farewell meal. Late evening transfer to Amman Airport for check-in. Trip concludes on arrival at Amman Airport. Your recommended flight EK906 departs at 02:30 on Thursday 04 June (Meals, B, D)

Meals:  B,D