What I Learned On Japan's Shikoku Pilgrim Trail

Tucked away on the Japanese island of Shikoku lies one of the most revered pilgrimage routes in the world — the Shikoku Pilgrimage. 

Spanning 88 temples, this ancient path invites wanderers to trace the footsteps of the Buddhist monk Kobo Daishi, who first laid the foundation for the pilgrimage in the 9th century. 

But don’t be fooled by its serene reputation, the Shikoku pilgrimage is not for the faint of heart. It’s a challenging, transformative journey, one that tests both the body and spirit, as I discovered during my own experience of becoming an o-henro.

Shikoku's Deep Spiritual Connection

One of the most striking aspects of the Shikoku pilgrimage is its deeply spiritual nature. Unlike other walking trails in Japan, this journey is not simply about hiking; it’s about connecting with something greater than yourself. 

The pilgrimage is sacred, and at each temple, you are reminded of the centuries of history and devotion that have passed through these sites. 

As you walk through the temple gates, you step into a space where tradition and spirituality come alive.

The rituals surrounding each temple are serious and precise, creating a reverent atmosphere. 

Even if you’re not religious, there’s an unspoken sense of respect that envelops you as you bow at the temple entrance, quietly absorbing the ancient energy of the place. 

I found myself following the customs, buying a white vest called a oizuru (the traditional pilgrim’s garb). Wearing it felt like a subtle shift, like I had become part of something much larger than myself. The white vest, along with a staff and suge-kasa (a conical hat that many pilgrims wear) signifies your role in the pilgrimage. 

Though I didn’t fully adopt the complete regalia, I found that even the simple act of wearing the vest helped me embrace the spiritual journey.

A Journey of Rituals and Keepsakes

Part of the magic of the pilgrimage lies in the small but meaningful rituals that accompany each stop. 

Pilgrims can purchase a special book made of rice paper, a heavy parchment-like keepsake that captures the essence of your journey. 

Each temple offers a stamp and a unique calligraphy from the temple’s monks, a striking piece of art that immortalizes your visit. For a small fee —  500 yen (about five dollars) — you receive the stamp, and the temple’s calligraphy creates a lasting reminder of your time on the sacred trail.

For me, the calligraphy and stamps became much more than mere souvenirs. They were tokens of my personal connection to each temple. The elegant brushstrokes of the calligraphy seemed to carry the weight of centuries of pilgrims, all of them walking in the same footsteps, experiencing the same moments of peace, exhaustion, and contemplation.

Osettai - It’s the People that Make the Trip

One of the reasons this pilgrimage is different from any other is something known as Osettai culture.

In my opinion, that’s what makes this trip ultimately so beautiful. The hospitality of Shikoku citizens is astounding. I was constantly offered rides to the next temple, given directions, places to stay, given prayer beads, and – most commonly – given food.

Often a candy or rice ball, and if you can, you return with an osamefuda – a name slip. Try not to refuse food – as it can be seen as an insult.

School children will also greet you and wish you well – often using the opportunity to practice their English.

The Beauty of Shikoku's Seasons

One of the most captivating parts of the journey was the time of year in which I walked. 

Autumn graced Shikoku with its stunning palette of colours, as the trees blushed in deep reds and vibrant oranges. The crisp air and short days made for a hauntingly beautiful atmosphere, but they also presented challenges. 

The daylight hours are fleeting, and if you’re not careful with your timing, you may find yourself racing to catch the last bus or train back to your accommodation.

On one particular evening, as the sun dipped below the horizon and the night settled in, I found myself hurrying to get on the last bus of the day. The fading daylight cast long shadows on the trail, and the cool autumn wind whispered through the trees. 

It was a moment of serene beauty, but also of urgency, as I needed to catch the bus before the night fully descended. 

Thankfully, help is a phone call away, offering a comforting safety net in case you missed your last ride. In those moments, I felt the ancient balance between solitude and human connection that makes this pilgrimage so profound.

A fellow traveller mentioned on the last day that if you know you like to take your time while walking, there is the option to pre-book taxis that will drop you off a little further along the walk. 

She said I would've just needed to let them know in advance, as it’s a very rural area with only a few taxis. And most importantly, she said to bring cash, as they don’t take credit or debit cards.

A Steep Challenge with No Turning Back

From the moment you step onto the path, there’s no easy exit. Unlike other walks, where you can turn back or catch a ride when fatigue sets in, the Shikoku pilgrimage demands you continue. Once you begin each day, you must keep going, and that sense of commitment makes the journey mentally and physically gruelling.

The path, while beautifully serene, is far from easy.

Steep hills and rugged terrain require strength, and at times, it feels like there is no end in sight. The endless stretch of dirt paths and ancient stone steps can feel like a test of endurance, but the experience itself is what makes the pilgrimage unforgettable. 

It’s not a walk; it’s a spiritual challenge, and every step you take brings you closer to a new temple. Rather than visit every temple, the Self-Guided Shikoku takes you to different parts of the island, giving you an experience of all the different types of landscapes.

Shukubo Pilgrims Lodgings

As part of the hike, we get to stay in two Shukubo temple lodgings, a Shukubo for a night, and this is such a serene experience because we go right into the main temple and attend prayer with a monk. 

We got to write a prayer or offering to the souls of our ancestors, as well as send wishes up to the Gods. It allowed us the opportunity to partake in religious chants and to be blessed by the good luck of the statues in the temple. 

On top of this, we got to eat with our fellow O-Henro, chat with the monks, and wake up to the sound of chanting. The food was an absolute highlight of my trip, every single meal was so fresh and delicious.

A Japanese Journey Worth Every Step

The Shikoku pilgrimage is not just a walk; it’s an immersive journey into Japan’s spiritual heart. It’s a path that forces you to confront your physical limitations, but also offers a chance to reflect, pray, and seek a deeper understanding of yourself. 

Though the journey was challenging and at times exhausting, it left me with a profound sense of peace and connection.

Whether you are a seasoned traveller or someone seeking a spiritual adventure, the Shikoku pilgrimage offers a once-in-a-lifetime experience. 

The Shikoku Pilgrim Trail is a unique walking experience that demands effort and introspection, but rewards you with unforgettable moments of beauty, tradition, and inner transformation.