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While reaching the summit of a mountain over 4000, 5000 or 6000 metres is a serious endeavour, this guide will help make it within reach for the fit and experienced trekker.
High altitude mountaineer, Soren Kruse Ledet, who has more than 20 years of guiding experience under his harness, shares his expertise and top tips for those looking to reach new heights in the mountains.
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I'm an aspiring climber, what experience should I have to join a mountaineering course?
Should I have previous experience travelling at high altitudes?
What skills can I gain when joining a beginner mountaineering course in the Himalayas?
What things can I expect out on the trail as a first-timer?
What are some top tips to be prepared physically and mentally?
How fit should I be?
What kind of training should I be doing?
Are there certain gear items I should have?
What does a day in a beginner mountaineering course look like?
What key things should I not overlook when getting into serious mountaineering?
If I've climbed before, what other things can I benefit from joining an introductory climbing expedition?
I'm an aspiring climber, what experience should I have to join a mountaineering course?
If you’re looking to step into mountaineering, it’s ideal that you have trekked before so that it isn’t difficult for you.
While you might find a refresher abseiling or rock climbing course to be beneficial, if you’re a beginner and have never climbed before, that’s not a problem. When choosing an introductory mountaineering course, no prior technical mountaineering or climbing experience is necessary, however, it is the next step up from a multi-day hike.
Some of the best parts about joining a mountaineering course with World Expeditions is that you’re combining alpine trekking and climbing opportunities with an experienced crew and world-class leaders, so you’ll be well supported and extremely safe when out in the mountains.
Should I have previous experience travelling at high altitudes?
No, but it is an advantage. You should be comfortable trekking in adverse weather conditions, so having prior experience at altitude is desirable. Should you not have this experience, being under the guidance of a climbing expert will add to your comfort and support.
What skills can I gain when joining a beginner mountaineering course in the Himalayas?
You will gain basic and very hands-on practical understanding and appreciation of what’s involved in climbing; like how to place rock, snow and ice protection; learning how to belay a lead climber, a multitude of useful knots etc.
When entering the outdoor classroom of say, the Himalayas, you can better learn how to be self-sufficient in a mountain environment. Knowing how to look after yourself in extreme conditions at altitude is a key takeaway from joining a World Expeditions mountaineering beginner course.
What things can I expect out on the trail as a first-timer?
Expect remote and poorly defined trails in variable weather, which can see you on foot for up to 12 hours a day. This is subject to weather conditions and altitude.
Setting expectations of what the terrain may encompass, such as knowing that there are high pass crossing involved or trekking across long-angle snow slopes, can help you feel more mentally prepared.
Ropes may be used during treks for glacier travel and steeper sections of ice and snow.
What are some top tips to be prepared physically and mentally?
Holding an objective that it is always farther than it looks, higher than it looks and harder than it looks. I recommend reading this ‘The 3 golden rules of mountaineering’ blog for ways to best approach mountain peaks and how to be mentally prepared when on an expedition.
How fit should I be?
As fit as you can be. The more fit and prepared you are, the more enjoyable the experience will be. So if you go on long and frequent hikes, are confident in carrying a heavy pack and train in advance for the trip, this will make all the difference.
As mentioned above, doing a mountaineering course is a step up from trekking, so you'll need a good level of fitness, a passion for mountains and the motivation to take the preparation seriously.
What kind of training should I be doing?
It’s ideal to start training a good six months leading up to the trip. Your training program should involve things like:
- strengthening your leg muscles
- building endurance
- carrying a heavy pack
- hill training
- improving your overall fitness
Doing exercise around four times or more a week for an hour and a half is a general guide and will depend on each individual’s capacity.
However, climbing is also very much a mental game, so giving yourself the mental space for such an expedition is just as important. Set expectations and do not underestimate the climb, even if it is a beginner grading. These factors will help you have a better chance of enjoying the course and hopefully reaching the prized summit.
Are there certain gear items I should have?
Depending on the expedition, a very detailed gear list is provided and the beginner course will include items like carabiners, belay devices, ascenders and so forth as part of the all-inclusive value. Items, like double boots, can be BYO or hired in advance.
What does a day in a beginner mountaineering course look like?
For instance, one day will be spent practising self-rescue using various friction knots and another is spent learning how to abseil. There is also time spent learning how to place snow and ice protection as well as going through a variety of knots so you can learn why, what and where specific knots are used. Practice makes perfect!
Once you’ve learnt the key alpine skills in great detail, you’ll then put them to the test on an achievable climb. Our previous course on Pachermo Peak (6273m) in Nepal was a fulfilling experience for our climbers. It offered the best hands-on mountaineering training in the best mountain classroom in the world: the Himalaya.
What key things should I not overlook when getting into serious mountaineering?
1. Your personal safety and the safety of your companions.
2. ‘Do your apprenticeship before committing to your dream mountain.’ That is, set realistic goals and understand that while you may be fit, you want to work your way up and build up your level of competency and self-sufficiency to make you safer.
3. Use good judgement and make sound decisions from experience.
If I've climbed before, what other things can I benefit from joining an introductory climbing expedition?
- Learn about climbing techniques including how to place snow, rock and ice anchors in greater detail.
- It’s a great refresher for alpine training and honing your mountaineering skills.
- Being able to climb and train at altitude.
- Combine safe climbing practices with the opportunity to climb and summit rarely ascended peaks. (Our 2021 course was to Pachermo Peak, check out the photos on our Facebook page)
- Experience complete support with a low climber to guide ratio and world-class leadership by an expert mountaineer.
- Enjoy ample acclimatisation days, an experienced climbing crew and fully-inclusive base camp services for a safe and high-quality mountaineering expedition.
Inspired to adventure in new and remote heights? View our introductory and entry-level mountaineering expeditions →
ABOUT THE EXPERT
Soren Kruse Ledet is one of World Expeditions’ most experienced mountaineering guides, having completed more than 50 expeditions in Nepal, Tibet, Bhutan, China, Patagonia and Central Asia. His career started as a member of the 1995 and 2003 Annapurna 4 Expedition, he has successfully reached the summit of Ama Dablam four times and traversed across Nepal on a six-month expedition. His easygoing nature and professionalism make him a sought-after guide.